The Great Himalayan Expedition - Beasters in Lahaul,Spiti,Sangla & Kinnaur.

Preparations

Getting the bike shipped from Bangalore to Delhi is one helluva task. Got the bike packed with no scope of damages for the train to Delhi.I got it checked in Delhi once again and found the wires were cut some places. Got it changed at the last moment.The last 2 days had gone more in the preparation of collecting Mats and sleeping bags from Dimensions in Sheikh Sarai and meeting in the “Mecca” Karol Bagh for Shopping of Bike Spares. Riding in New Delhi is one hell of a task when the humidity hits a whopping 97% with the traffic snarls.

Day 1- 21st June.08
New Delhi to Bilaspur

Thanks to all as we were more organized. Met at Azadpur Mandi at 5am. I would not have made it here with the help of Abhay since driving down from Vasant aparts. to the meeting point was far. We got our 1st experience when our co rider Amar lost his pouch on the road. Clueless where it had fallen, we left soon for the highway. Yes, I finally made it on the highway and we didn’t waste a single minute getting out of Delhi. We stopped midway for Breakfast at one of the famous dhaba’s for Paranthas’ and chai-Jhilmil Dhaba. Thanks to Rohit who knew Delhi-Chandigarh highway and ridden a dozen times. We reached Chandigarh mid day at “Katani Dhaba’ for brunch.The yummy Paranthas were to good and had more n more - to find the Cramster jacket difficult to wear. Now- we head for the hills - Swarghat and further. Got a wee bit taste and bid adieu to the plains. The fresh air, road curves and trees - wow, we are in the Himalayas.Stopped for chai at 3 pm - when we got a 1st jhatka - Amar's standard bike gave problems,,it refused to start as it had ignition problem. Tool box, battery check up,oil - all that and it didnt work. We lost 2 hours of riding and had to dump it in a tempo for Bilaspur. Since Nishant and Megha were behind, we had to wait for them to catch up. Getting Amars bike fixed at Baldev Mechanic in Bilaspur took time. We settled for the day at Sangam guest house with thora sa Rum and heavy dinner.

Day 2 -22nd June.08
Bilaspur to Manali

Woke up late - left for Manali at 8. Amar - now his bike been fixed left early as he wanted to see Rohtang Pass and head back to Delhi. The ride was comfortable having good highways. We stopped for B.fast at Delhi Durbar in Mandi. Rohit suggested to take the Old Manali route to Vashist - less people and less traffic. A decent ride with less of trouble and settled near the old bridge in Hotel Dreamland. Had to help Nishant fix his Ladakh carrier as the "Patti" broke. Tanked up in the evening. Had to help once again - Amar's bike since it gave problem down hill in Rohtang. I wouldn't recommend a Standard bike on long tours as this one gave hell loads of problems. A yummy dinner with the Bikers and heard Panauti's story of his solo trip to Leh.

Day 3 -23rd June.08
Manali to Chatru via Rohtang (3970 m) n Gramphoo.

We left at 5am as we heard a mega traffic jam in Rohtang Pass - one of turns had mud n slush.Gaining an altitude of 2050mts - we had more to climb the pass. I had to squeeze my bike to get over the traffic - took the nearby hills to over take the jam. We lost 2 hours of precious climbing due to traffic and lanslide and i knew the Nallahs at mid day are high.The view Rohtang (3970 Mts) was beautiful seeing the herringboned ridges into the Lahaul Valley. Few kms. further - i found the SonaPani Glacier and down to Gramphoo - you get to see the Lahaul & Spiti Valley. We stopped for B.fast at Gramphoo. As you take right - the real safari begins with off roading - now only mud,slush, rocks and water crossings for another 170 kms - this was the moment i waited for years. It was a dream riding in this region. The 1st Nalla crossing was terrible - the water flow was high and glacier water was too cold. The 500's managed - Rohit and Nishant's bike. Manu tried his level best to over - he did but with burnt clutch plates - we tried to fixed it but it didnt work. Had to leave the bike n head to Chatru as it was getting dark. Leaving the chaotic traffic and coming to Lahaul is an experience - here its more rugged and loads of barren rocks in the mountains. I managed to do a small trek with Saurabh up in the hills to get a good view of the Lahaul Landscape.Here, at Prem Dhaba - we got the real hang over of "AMS" as Pooja says - aao mujh me sama jao - its Acute Mountain Sickness.We took a few snaps on the Chatru bridge and planned for next days early ride.

Day 4 -24th June.08
Chatru to Kaza via Batal & Kunzum Pass.(4590m)

We bid farewell to Manu and Saurabh as they had to get the bike fixed in Manali and it wasnt possible for them to catch up. I hope if Manu reads this - he makes it some day on this route - as this was his 2nd attempt to Lahal & Spiti. Getting used to the Nallahs and dirt track - now it was farely easy driving. The 2nd day in Lahaul - the landscape was similar and i felt i was in an unknown territory. On this stretch - we found no traffic at all and no bikers. The mountains are so huge as if they would eat you - barren and untouched with clear blue skies.Crossed Chota dhara and reached mid day at Batal. Had b.fast with garam chai n maggi tohead further to K.Pass.Crossing the Chandera river valley - the muddy n dusty ascent after Batal to Kunzum Pass was tuff. I found the need to have a 500 as i would see Rohit and Nishant cruising over mountains with ease. Tuff turns and ziz zag curves - it seemed y'r climbing the Pass - on 1st gear ,,the bike screamed for extra power as every curve was difficult. I enjoyed the view crossing the Bara Shigri glacier. Reached K.top and did a parikrama. Kunzum Pass (4551mts.) is a point which divides the Lahaul Spiti Region, since we crossed Lahaul - now we would travel in Spiti. After a breif photo shoot - we head to Spiti.15 kms down hill- you reach "Takcha" where the valley broadens with the river. I am short of words to describe Spiti. The 70 kms ride from K.Pass to Kaza is gorgeous - a mixture of the Rockies n Colorado mountains. The view is amazing and riding in Spiti was heaven - i felt that every minute driving in Spiti is worth it. Stark beauty, narrow valleys,,,as Rudyard Kipling says in his book Kim - Spiti - is a world within a world and the place the Gods' live.Had lunch at Losar, i rode to Kaza with good roads crossing Hamsa,Pangma,Morang and Rangrik.Checked in at Norbuling Guest house at Kaza.

Day 5 -25th June.08
Kaza - Caumic, Ki(4116m)& Kibber(4205m) Gompas

A relaxed day - left late for Caumic Gompa via Langza Village. At a very high altitude - the day ride was tuff but worth a visit. Steep rocky mountains and strips of cultivable land - the village Langza,Hikkim and Caumic were beautiful. Caumic Gompa - you get the real taste of Buddhism and meet tribal people. Settled for a cuppa of tea and left for Kaza. The gang wanted to rest where i found time to visit Ki and Kibber. Riding alone on this section was worth it - Ki and Kibber. Reaching Kibber had steep climbs. Kibber is the highest permanently inhabited village in the world. at Kibber - the view is awesome. I wish i had managed a day to trek on this route. Imagine temperatures dropping to below 35 degree C - people survive only to the prayers of "Om Mani Padme Hum". I dont know the number of shots i managed to click - but its worth it.I ran out of fuel - so drove downhill 10 kms to save fuel and reach Kaza.

Day 6 -26th June.08
Kaza to Nako via Tabo (3050m) n Malling Nallah

Tanked up at Kaza with extra fuel -left at 8am for Nako. I had loads of doubts crossing Malling - hearing the crossing was too tuff and road clearance. The roads were good and we zoomed by villages reaching Tabo by 10. Nishant's left his purse at the guest house and we had to find ways to get it at Tabo.Finally we left Tabo as Freya-RTMC would collect the purse.Thanks to Sanju. We crossed Sumdo - close to China border. From Chango - a 20 km uphill to Malling - we found neat n widened roads. On few turns - my bike refused to climb as the ascent was very high. I had to stop for a few minutes as the clutch plates were hot - i feared that it would burn. Climbing Malling Nalah reminded of Changla terrain. As we approached nearer - it got barren with dusty roads,,the crossing had a high flow of cold water with a turn. This was it - Rohit, Nishant and me had to reiki and check out the water level,,,unpack my luggage - cross the river and with full throttle - cross Malling. Yes - we did it. It was one of the difficult Nalla crossing we did on the entire route,,one slight miss - and the water would have seeped in the engine.Reached Nako by evening and checked in Knaygoh Guest house.

Day 7 -27th June.08

Nako

Nako is a beautiful village, our guest house had a perfect view of the Nako Tal overseeing the village. It looked like a perfect holiday - sipping Tea, writing points for the Blog and Beasters discussing school old days and past rides.Me,Pooja & Rohit did a Nako tour of the village and settled for late lunch. We found the village empty as most had gone to the fields and only a few Cow noises. Did a small trek to get a view of the mountains.Late dinner at the Knaygoh Guest house.

Day 8 -28th June.08
Nako to Sangla via Khab,Pooh,Skibba,Karcham

Left at 8am, drove for 1 hour to reach Pooh.A rocky terrain downhill with beautiful ghats. Stopped for Nishants carrier repair.We stopped at the Check post after Pooh and met few cyclists. Reaching Kalpa, we found the mountains landscape change -now it was green, snow capped mountains with fog and tarred roads. We reached Karcham - where we had to take a deviation to Sangla - 22 kms. The uphill had a good view - pine forest with loads of greenery. Yes - we were n Sangla Valley - a landscape totally different than Lahal and Spiti.Reached in the afternoon at Prakash Guest house.

Day 8 -29th June.08

Sangla
The view from the guest house was perfect - the mountains were covered in fog. The guest house had a big apple farm and we could see the Beasters Bike - resting.I took a walk with the Beasters to Sangla village - met a Kinnauri family, they offered Chai and showed their Carpets and badam jewelry. Vidya Rath is currently a school teacher. Did some shopping in the evening and had a heavy lunch n dinner. We were supposed to go to Chitkul but the roads conditions were not good and loads of water crossing.

Day 9 -30th June.08
Sangla to Narkanda (2708m) via Rampur

Since it was a long day ride to Shimla - had to leave early - but not that early of course. We got a good stretch of the Rampur ghats and the roads were perfect.I was sad for a while since now - we got back to civilization and the heat would get me in wearing the Cramster jacket. Stopped mid way for brunch - i could feel the plains would not be far. Then came the Narkanda ghats at noon - the stretch was good with a good gradient. As we entered the ghats - i found the view was great with lots of fod in the mountains,,at some stretches - visibility was bad and had to slow down. A nice ride to Narkanda - at the entrance - i found the Beasters waiting for me for Chai. We took a break - it was almost evening - and by Nishant and Rohits persuasion - we stayed at Hatu Peak - Narkanda. The Hotel Hatu had an amazing view and cosy rooms.It was my last night with the Beasters as i would take a detour to meet my freinds in Ludhiana and then to Delhi.

Day 10 -01st July.08
Narkanda to Ludhiana via Shimla

I had to leave early as i had a long distance to cover to ludhiana. Crossing Narkanda to Shimla was a nice ride with a good panoramic view of the Snow peaks and the cedar forests.I wanted to take a few pics. in Shimla - but when i saw the traffic - i was in no mood to burn my clutch plates - i zoomed to the bypass for Chandigarh.On downhill - i could feel the heat and was wondering what it would be in Delhi. Bought 4 kgs of small apples for freinds and reaching Chandigarh by 3pm. Got lost on the way but soon found the route to Ludhiana. Got the highway for Ludhiana - this route was tiring as it was very very humid,,,i miss the hills. I reached Hardeeps pind - Basti Jodhewal by 5ish.Happy to meet Hardeep after 3 years and saw his new horses.

Riders - Beasters-New Delhi
1. Rajiv Jispa (Electra 350cc-Blue)
2. Rohit Sharma (Machismo 500cc)
3. Nishant (modified 500cc)

Pillion
1. Pooja
2.Megha

Total distance covered
2350 kms.



Photo links
1. http://picasaweb.google.com/kkrajiv/BeastersInSpiti
2. http://picasaweb.google.com/kkrajiv/Spiti

Important Contacts and Phone Nos.
1. Mahendru Motors - (Adchini.New Delhi) 011-26856331
2. Salim Mechanic - (Uphaar Cinema.New Delhi) 9945366563
3. Shanta Negi - (Kinner Camps.Nako) kinnercamps.com,941844077
4. Surender - Alpine Trek - Manali 9816316293,alpine_treks@hotmail.com
5. Cramster - Bangalore
www.cramster.in 080 41519713

Rider Mania

Rider Mania - Its one of the most awaited events any biker - Bullet enthusiast could wait for. The biker will not block his caledar but rather remember the dates for the ride,,,,,,, Its on the concept what we have in OOsa - the annual Harley Bikers meet. The RM has been hosting this event for the past 7 years on different locations where the Clubs. get a chance to host. The earliar places were Goa,Panvel, Chennai, Nagpur and now Hyderabad. Its one of the events not to be missed. Individual Bikers & Clubs from all over India come to the "Mecca" to enjoy, pardy and meet old friends. "Its the spirit of Biking" and of course an event for "Bullet enthusiasts"

Preparation : since the earliar RTMC anniversary in Coorg - i had lokesh and Bhupi-where we toured and trekked in Coorg. This was an event where i wanted my Mexicano freind to join. Cesar - a common freind of ours form Oracle GFIC joined us,,,,sending mails, calling and last minute checks on the bike,,oh yes,,running to JC road and picking the Cramster Jacket and turtle bag was hell of a task. I had one busy day,,,,did a last minute check up with all riders before to start our journey next day.

Day 1. 17th Jan.08 : Bangalore to Hyderabad

It was the longest i have done in a day. The last i covered max. in a day was way back when i did Leh with Karthik, Sachin and late Raja with Royal Beasts - Manali to Delhi in 1 day - approx. 520 kms. This time 620 kms. Inspite of having a Lumbar Slip disc - i broke all odds and did it one day. As a rider - i was just too anxious to leave and was not able to get enough sleep. Wake up calls to all members,,,hurrying to get our stuff ready and boooom, we head straight to the meeting point at Hebbal. Tanked up and ready to move. Infact it was a moment to see all, all donned with the Biking gear - ready to go for the "RM"- all bikes with flashy lights on the National Highway. We got for a while the early fog. our 1st stop was in Chikballapur. Had an early one since we had a tuff day go ahead. The char bikers were together after break fast. at 11ish the sun was on our heads - and i could get the heat. Of all th highways - i find Blr. to Hyd. - a very dry,arid and lonely ride.You just didn't get any scenic on the route. As we left the capital, clocking some 200 kms. ,,,Yes - i would say - we were in the "Deccan Plateau" ,,,,most of the km boards were in Telugu, no passer by on the roads, and only Bullets on the roads. Infact - i had to cool down many times to gulp water before i would get dehydrated. As far i can recall - there were only 2 stretches where i could stop for a while and click a foto. Lokesh and Cesar had zoomed off with the RTMC gang. Either we could not catch up or we deviated somewhere,,, Bhups. and me rode for some 1oo km together,,,we stopeed at 12:15 at Gooty for Lunch. I did not want to have at that moment - since some 300 kms odd was left - and having lunch would mean - lethargic on the highway. I still recall the last time i hit this highway when i did the announce ride to Timbaktu - Penakonda. Now - i found loads of change. The entire stretch is been turned into a six lane, loads of consrtuction and dhool mitti. Bhups. and me stopped for lunch at 3 after Kurnool. 25 bucks for a mini meal- you bet,,,i was just into it. The dal was so hot - you had to wait for it to cool down,,it reminds me of the north - the road side dhabas - i wouldnt say a rip off,,yes - but for 2 - a wee 100 bucks. here the quality for what you pay is real good. Food - idlis and rice - you can manage ur day out. very impressive on lunch.

We hit the highway and found Lokesh and Cesar.Just at sunset - we stopped a chai - and a small briefing by An?l for the where abouts to Ramoji. It was some confusion as to where to turn - we didnt had to enter the city - a deviation we had to take for Ramoji. We clocked almost 550 kms by 8pm - bones started to ache, and i could see myself yawning in my helmet covered with the balaclavas.Now - i couldnt wait to see ramoji and hit bed. Varun and ady had joined since it was dark and we need help to Ramoji. Finally, we hit Hyd. as you come so billboards of Reliance and SBI,,,the Wanderers at 1 junction told us the way to Ramoji,,traffic at some junctions we pathetic but we managed our way in,,one Hyd. nos. escorted us to the venue.I still recall that moment where the gates were open for the 'Grand entry" ,,we were in Ramoji and someone escorted us to the venue. 8kms dot. we reached the main venue. One hell of a ride - loads of biked parked,,a stall for us to check in and welcome drinks. It was a moment to see - the machines ready to relax so as the bikers. The dorms were neat.checked in for a shower. Now - we rejuvenated from the fresh bath and we could see bikers coming in,,,had good food,,chit chat and hit for bed.

Day 2.18th Jan.08 : Ramoji Film City

Breakfast was good.We could see various groups coming in for the event. It was a moment to see- all bikes getting parked and people checkin in,,the 1st event to be held was the arm wrestling,,most of the organizers were busy in people check in,,,Chennai - Mad Bulls, Pune - Road Shakers, Mumbai - Indie Thumpers and above all - the Royal Beasts - i was waiting for them to come..10 bikes rocked the entry,,,,,Karan,Bijoy,Karthik,Shaina,Mahima,Rajan, gadget and Bawa. Once they reached - i went to meet them,,,how could i forget my frnds. its been a long way from Royal Beasts to RTMC. Seeing Mahima at the venue was one moment. Events followed like - assembly wars,,,BBC and NDTV good times were doing a good coverage. You seemed to be special for 1 moment. Fun talking to old freinds - after that is what "RM" is all about. While blogging this - i just recall what events followed,,there were so many things that i would have done but couldnt remember. Drinking, seeing new bikes, hulla gulla, meeting new people, crazy bikers,,some much to do. How time passes by - you wouldnt know here.The last i heard was - we had to reach the venue - where Royal Enfield was hosting the party. By joe - i still cant forget that moment. A hard rock band amongst cameras, a spectacular fountain and a lovely lawn. It looked like an event. The back drop was amazing and thanks to the organizers. Bikers could be seen gulping beer, other drinks. The pardy was all set,,head banging on the rock songs,,,some were busy to get the Hyderabadi cuisine,,after all - you travelled so long for this. i was in full pardy dancing with everyone. DJ from Pune - i cant recall her name,,,she was tooo good,,,kept on n on n on. the count of beers, vodka and other drinks,,,,,hmmmmmmmm. The pardy got over by 2ish. Some tully - difficult to make it to the main bus and others laughing by,,we reached to our rooms.

Day 3.19th Jan.08 : Ramoji film City

By the time i woke up - it was too late for breakfast--anyways,,i didnt mind - since the 2/3 helpings of the Mutton Korma during supper was delicious . There were host of events lined up for the day. The most was the "Rider Mania" ride for all groups. All biker with their bikes had to come in a queue - random and do a ride. There were of course - at the moment - loads of people taking pics. videos of the ride. Unfortunately - i dont have a video but i will not forget that moment riding with almost 320 bikers in a formation. There was discipline in riding and it was a sight to see. The event went on for a 8km where we passed the Ramoji Film sets to the racing ground. One dry piece of stretch - but it was a vast land - for racing, dirt biking and stunts. Not to forget - some avid bikers - i mean - vintage bikes to be seen. "Drongon Fly" " Indian Chief" were some of them to be spotted. Everyone rider was busy taking a shoot - i did not miss this one. Under the heat - events came by and so all were glued to watch the riders in action - the best of the events was racing. The monster racing is one event to watch. Prashi's modified "urge" and karthik in action - moment to watch. I rushed by noon for a nap before i could get a heat stroke. Had to rush in the evening to the army cant for Ranvirs wedding. Met the JNU gang and of course thanks to Varun for ride in HYD. I had almost spent 4 hours on the wedding and had to come back for the last night. The event was organized in the lawns far by the main venue. Thanks to all,,pardy,booze and then RTMC hosting the next RM.

Day 4.20th Jan.08 : Hyderabad to Bangalore.

Early morning wake up, all in a rush to head the highway back to home. Bid farewell to all riders and once we were back on the roads - RTMC in "eshtyle". Getting to the main highway took us 2 hours. By the time it was 9, we had covered good distance. After that, there was no stopping, all wanted to reach home before sunset and we did. Stopping for lunch at gooty, stops at Penakonda and puncture near airport station - Conrod. I would have reached home by 8ish but had to wait for the flat tyr - Conrod. It was hell riding - as most of the time - we were touching 95. Statistics.

Route : Hebbal,Chikballapur,Ananthpur,Gooty,Kurnool,Jadcherla Ramoji Film City.
Total distance covered : 1422- kms.
Riders : Rajiv Jispa, Lokesh, Bhupinder & Cesar

"Caman the enjaiment"

http://picasaweb.google.com/kkrajiv/RiderMania08